A Last Taste of Sienna

A few weeks ago we made a trip down to Dorset especially to revisit the Michelin starred Sienna in Dorchester,restaurant of Russell Brown. With great sadness we found out that Russell plans to close in April ,12 years after opening. With this in mind and also with memories of the last  wonderful meal we had there just under a year ago,we decided we had to make a return visit before closure so we could enjoy Russell's magnificent culinary creations for one last time.
We made a reservation for a Thursday night and made our way to Dorchester where we were staying. On arriving at the restaurant we were once again greeted by Russell's wife,the very lovely Elena. We were shown to our table and given the menus to peruse and at once hit upon a problem!! There were so many things on the normal menu that we wanted but couldn't decide on. So we decided to opt for the 7 course tasting menu as this had some of the options on. Good choice. This was to be taken by the whole table which was okay with both of us. For those of you who have never come across a tasting menu it is a menu made up of lots of little plates. This way you get to try a multitude of dishes without eating too much.

Whilst making our choice we were brought out some tasty little canapes. Just the right amount to start the tastebuds tingling. A miniature Leek and Bacon Tart, crispy Cheese Straws and the most wonderful Goat's Cheese Truffle which to be honest if I were to be given a box of those instead of chocolates I'd happily devour. Now with our appetite ready for more we eagerly awaited the first course. This was Celeriac soup with caramelised apple served with a Cheese and Apple Muffin. I think celeriac tends to be one of those vegetables that is quite underused. It is not exactly attractive with its gnarled roots at one end. Those people who decide against it are missing out big time. This soup with its mild celery type flavour was perfect,silky in texture with hidden caramelised apple in it. Also the cheese and apple muffin was a perfect accompaniment, being light and fluffy much better than having bread with it.

Our next course was one of the dishes from the main menu.Duck Liver Parfait with Pickled Rhubarb,Onion and Rhubarb Chutney with Chargrilled Baguette. Wow! as a fairly newbie to rhubarb I was thrilled with this. What have I been missing all these years? The parfait smooth and light not at all like a pate which seems thick in comparison ,the pickled rhubarb and the chutney balancing up the richness of it. Also the baguette was thinly sliced therefore so again not filling you up but leaving you eating just the right amount. Once again a perfect dish.

The next dish a derivitive of another from the main menu , Butternut Squash ,Old Winchester Agnolotti with Sage Beurre Noisette. This is the type of dish which would make me happy to be a vegetarian. It had so much flavour ,the sweetness of the butternut squash coming through and not being overpowered by the sage. The pasta also was cooked to perfection.


The fish course was a delightful chunk of Panfried fillet of Cod with Chorizo,Lemon and Parsley. The cod so meaty and delicious sat on a small bed of greens with the slight spiciness of the chorizo to compliment it. Two little dots of  lemon and parsley intense in flavour just enough to give zing to the fish.
Next came the meat course and possibly my favourite (although when I think back I really think they were all my favourites) . This was possibly the biggest course but I was happy with that. Roast Rump of Lamb with Panfried Polenta,Smokey Aubergine Puree and Red Pepper sauce. What an absolute delight. This is the sort of dish which stops me being vegetarian. A magnificent tasting piece of lamb cooked pink served on cavolo nero (which I think is my favourite green). The iron of the cavolo nero complimenting the lamb perfectly,crisply cooked polenta instead of potatoes and the smokey aubergine (inspired by Sabrina Ghayor) finishing it all off . Yes I think my favourite. A perfect plate of food in every way.

Cheese course next and this was a bit of a challenge for me as it contained pear. Something I loathe. Its the grittiness of it that I don't like .But this year I have pledged to myself to try the things I dislike to just remind myself why I don't like them and to see if anything has changed. (although I still maintain sprouts are out of the question). Gorgonzola Dolce with Fresh Pear and Sea Salt Crackers. What can I say? As on our last visit the cheese is served at the perfect temperature to be able to taste it, not just removed from the fridge just before serving as I've had previously. Many a cheese board can be spoiled by it being served too cold.  I liked this pear,it was not gritty and came in two ways one a smooth puree and the other sliced with a few leaves and a dressing . It was delicious and a pleasure to eat. There was just enough of the creamy cheese which was accompanied by two beautifully crisp sea salt crackers.

Then we had a lovely little surprise a bonus course of a little glass packed with Rhubarb and Ginger Cheesecake.What a lovely bonus,a classic combination,not at all heavy .The sharp rhubarb and spicy ginger being tamed by the cheesecake.

The Desert course was sublime. Saffron,Honey,Raisin and Marmalade Sponge with Clotted Cream Ice Cream and an Orange syrup. This was a perfect final course as the sponge was so light it was a dream ,not at all the pudding that you sometimes can't eat because its just that little bit too heavy. The sweetness of the honey and raisins balnced by the marmalade sponge.The clotted cream not too rich to spoil the rest of the dish. A really good end to a good meal.

We opted for coffee to finish with and were presented along with it a lovely plate of petit fours and more wonderful flavours. A tiny Lemon Curd Tart ,Clotted Cream Shortbread and a Seville Orange Chocolate Ganache. The best way that I could have ended this fabulous dining experience. We left the restaurant having eaten the perfect amount,not too much that it was uncomfortable and not too little that we were looking for the local chippy on the way back. A skill indeed when planning a tasting menu.
Were we glad we returned before Sienna closes its doors for the last time. Most definitely. The quality,choice and experience was as perfect as the first time we went.
What next for Russell. Well he has embarked on a new venture which allows him to follow other pursuits within his field.He has set up a new website Creative About Cuisine which outlines his next moves which include demonstrations,teaching ,food consultancy and photography. The new website will include blogs from Russell and other guest contributors.
I'm also hoping that somewhere along the line there might be the possibility of the odd pop up restaurant so we can once again sit and enjoy a wonderful meal cooked by Russell.